Aconteceu ontem, 27, no primeiro dia da semana de moda de Paris, a estréia de Vaccarello à frente da Saint Laurent. A coleção de Spring Summer 17 foi apresentada no prédio que abrigou o Ministério das Forças Armadas da França até 2014, e que atualmente está em reforma para tornar-se a nova sede e showroom da Saint Laurent em 2018.
SPRING SUMMER 17
For his Spring Summer 2017 collection, Anthony Vaccarello has let himself get carried away by the images of the designer,
like flashbacks, snapshots.
In his mind, the picture of Paloma Picasso landing in the life of the couturier, with her 1940s’ second-hand clothes
and her very own style. She inspired the 1972 “Scandal” collection which was irreverent and disturbing to the eyes
It is this attitude that Anthony Vaccarello transposes in the present. This Saint Laurent woman who, today, draws
her references from the 1980s to make them her own. This girl who cultivates a taste for what is kitsch, the bizarrely
beautiful, the great classics and a highly individual style.
The starting point of this collection : a dress with exaggerated sleeves taken from the archives. From this thread,
Anthony Vaccarello draws a contemporary silhouette, a sort of sensitive and personal collage.
As though this girl whose fashion culture is part of her, restructured the model, brought the shoulders down, attached
a sleeve to a bustier, wore it with jeans or under a boy’s jacket – distant evocation of Saint Laurent’s sailor coat.
Corner stone of the fashion house’s lexicon, the tuxedo impregnates this collection. Exploring the tailoring savoir-faire
of Saint Laurent’s ateliers, Anthony Vaccarello deconstructs and revises the tuxedo.
There is a second degree in this collection, a collection within the collection of what Mr. Saint Laurent loved above all:
twisting bourgeois conventions and flirting with bad taste.
The music has been conceived by Sebastian.
This Spring-Summer 2017 show takes place rue de Bellechasse in the 17th century Abbey of Penthemont, which until
2014 was home to the Ministry of the French Armed Forces. Today it is in full renovation to welcome the headquarters
and showrooms of Saint Laurent in 2018.